Lately, it feels like all the noise-rockers, brand managers, and alt-comedians have ventured from Bushwick to Ridgewood, and not by accident, the wedge of Queens has been developing at the same time as a dining destination. Late last year, the newest comer came: Look for the crocheted curtains freshly hung in an old funeral home at the corner of Onderdonk Avenue. This is the domain of the @pierogiboys, a.k.a. Andrzej Kinczyk and Krzysztof Poluchowicz, partners in life and dumplings. The Boys are not new to pierogi, which they have been selling at the DeKalb Market Hall since 2017, and they are not new to Ridgewood, where they have lived since emigrating from Poland 21 years ago. But their 40-seat restaurant with a sizable grocery attached is the largest expression of their ambitions yet. Read what chief restaurant critic Matthew Schneier thought of the Boys’ brick-and-mortar debut: